With High Expectations…
We arrived back in Toronto again and headed out for food. After having a browse, we hit Jack’s for something simple. We were surprised to find ourselves in a huge square with massive advertising boards shining down from the buildings surrounding us.
This was Sankofa Square and it was quite spectacular, reminding us of Piccadilly Circus, although the skyscrapers were much taller. We were looking forward to exploring Toronto the following day.
The previous evening the hotel reception had given us some suggested areas to explore, so, over breakfast we outlined a possible route around the key areas of the city. The old town was first, and St James’ Cathedral seemed an obvious first port of call.
The pews were closed off with little wooden gates and the décor was simple, the most stunning part being the stained-glass windows that surrounded the altar. St James Park was the setting, but not unlike other major churches we’d visited over the years, there were homeless people camping within the entrances or grounds. This was again a sad sight to witness.
Our stroll took us to one of the oldest buildings in Toronto. We didn’t realise we were heading to a former post office building, but we soon became aware that Canada is relatively young.
Toronto was initially founded as York in 1793. Now that felt like a long time ago, but the more we looked for Old Toronto, the less we found. Toronto was born out of York in 1834, less than 200 years ago.
We reflected on such things as Skipton Castle, which was first built in 1090, over 800 years before. This made us realise Canada is without any ancient history as such. Even Barlick, initially Bernulfsuuic in 1086, seems to have more history, particularly with its monastery link to Kirkstall Abbey.
York – Toronto, was only just being established when the Leeds and Liverpool Canal reached Barnoldswick as part of the industrial growth.
We visited the old buildings of the brewery, many now individual outlets, and you could imagine them being a hive of activity at the weekend. Bistros and tiny ale outlets, along with designer and even pop-up shops, filled the old buildings.
We felt deflated and yet lucky at the same time. We realised why people from the USA and Canada, perhaps even Australia, visited the UK. We are blessed with a history and examples of standing architecture that go back a very long time.
We found the waterfront and the view across to the island was lovely, but it was very much a working waterfront, not one where you could walk for ages next to the water of Lake Ontario. It was never long before you were forced back onto the city streets, with sprawling highways running alongside.
Our final evening treat was a visit to the CN Tower. We really enjoyed the views from the top as we gradually rotated 360 degrees while eating dinner, as the light faded from day to night and the city lights became more and more spectacular.
It was nearly time to head home, leaving our rucksacks at the hotel as we toured more streets on the final day. It really did become like filling time.
We headed off to find an area which we’d been told was interesting, with lots of little shops and food outlets. Walking through Chinatown felt like an education, but as we approached the area of graffiti-covered wall art, we became a little more concerned.
The area was actually made to look interesting, but behind the scene was poverty, yet an area that was vibrant and you could understand it being busy in the evening. We noticed more and more, the impact of unemployment, homelessness and the unavoidable smell of cannabis, which hit the back of your throat, becoming increasingly obvious.
Canada had made cannabis legal for recreational use in 2018. At one point it was like walking through a scene from a movie, but this was no movie. It was like a living zombie apocalypse.
People slumped on benches, staring at the ground, limbs hanging motionless. Others stood facing each other with blank expressions, staring at each other. It was uncomfortable. We sighed in disbelief at the scene we’d witnessed as we left and headed back towards the waterfront. It almost feels wrong to pass judgement, but this surely could not be right!
Then we fell across something to celebrate — real history and culture. The beginning, “York Fort”, was preserved to some extent and rebuilt. The story told of the invasion from the USA, the fight and struggle of the Canadian people and First Nation people who fought side by side with the British against the Americans.
It was hard to believe that this part of Canada’s history was not made more of a focal point to visit. Perhaps it was almost lost between the high rises, the busy motorway and the main transport artery into the city.
Our memories of Canada will be of varied city life, of towering waterfalls, of a wonderful coastline, rivers that could easily be seas, of the language and the change from English to French as regions were crossed, of welcoming people and some of the challenges, the weather and climate, the underground cities, the stunning scenery and the most incredible colours.
So that was Canada’s East…
Perhaps the West will be next to be explored!
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